Skip to main content

Take-Home Pay Calculator

Tax & Income

See what's left after tax and deductions.

Pay & deductions

Pay type
Your total pay before any taxes or deductions.
$
Pay frequency
Filing status
Tax year
Traditional, pre-tax — lowers income tax but not Social Security or Medicare.
%
Benefits, withholding & state tax
Pre-tax medical, dental and vision premiums — lower both income tax and FICA wages.
$
Pre-tax health-savings or flexible-spending contributions.
$
Roth 401(k), union dues, garnishments and other after-tax items.
$
W-4 Step 3 annual amount — lowers the tax withheld from each paycheck.
$
W-4 Step 4(c) — extra federal tax withheld each pay period.
$
Optional flat estimate. State rules vary — see the Income Tax Calculator for detail.
%
Optional flat city or county wage-tax rate.
%

Enter your pay to see your take-home breakdown.

2025 withholding brackets · Single

2025 withholding brackets · Single
RateTaxable wages over
10%$0
12%$11,925
22%$48,475
24%$103,350
32%$197,300
35%$250,525
37%$626,350
  • Social Security: 6.2% on wages up to $176,100 a year.
  • Medicare: 1.45% on all wages, with no cap.
  • Additional Medicare: 0.9% on wages over $200,000.
  • Withholding standard deduction: $15,750 (Single).

Your inputs

Your inputs
InputMeaningYour value
Pay typeWhether pay is entered as a salary or an hourly wage.Salary
Gross payYour gross pay for the year before deductions.$0
Pay frequencyHow often you are paid.Bi-weekly
Filing statusSets the withholding brackets and standard deduction.Single
Tax yearThe tax year whose brackets and limits apply.2025
Calculation transparency

Know what this estimate is based on

Jurisdiction
United States unless the calculator explicitly says otherwise
Rules and time period
Tax years supported by the selected calculator
Scope and limitations
Educational estimate only, not a tax return or filing determination. U.S. statutory-threshold tools use USD. Confirm current law and your facts with the relevant authority or a qualified tax professional.
Source links checked
Jul 30, 2026

Built and regression-tested by Smart Tools Lab. It has not been individually reviewed by a licensed financial, tax, or legal professional.

How to use

  1. 01

    Choose salary or hourly, enter your gross pay, and pick how often you are paid — weekly, bi-weekly, semi-monthly, monthly, daily or annual.

  2. 02

    Set your filing status and tax year so the right federal withholding brackets, standard deduction and Social Security wage base apply.

  3. 03

    Add your 401(k) percentage, then open Benefits, withholding & state tax for health and HSA/FSA premiums, post-tax deductions, W-4 dependents and extra withholding, and an optional flat state or local rate.

  4. 04

    Read your take-home pay for every pay period, your full paycheck stub, the deduction donut, and your effective tax and take-home rates — all clearly labelled as estimates.

Formula

Your take-home pay is your gross pay minus everything your employer holds back. The calculator starts from gross pay — your salary, or your hourly wage times hours times weeks plus any overtime at 1.5×. It then removes pre-tax deductions, and here the key payroll distinction matters: a traditional 401(k) lowers the wages used for income-tax withholding but not the wages used for Social Security and Medicare, while Section-125 benefits (health premiums, HSA and FSA) lower both. Federal income tax withheld is estimated with the IRS percentage method — annual taxable wages minus the filing-status standard deduction, run through the same progressive brackets, less your W-4 dependent credit, plus any extra per-paycheck amount. Social Security is 6.2% of wages up to the yearly wage base, Medicare is 1.45% of all wages, and an extra 0.9% Additional Medicare applies to wages over $200,000. Optional flat state and local rates and any post-tax deductions come off last. Gross minus pre-tax deductions, minus all taxes withheld, minus post-tax deductions equals your net take-home pay, which is then divided across your pay periods. Every figure is an estimate.

Example

Take a single employee earning a $72,000 salary in 2025, paid every two weeks, who puts 6% into a traditional 401(k) and pays $2,400 a year for pre-tax health insurance. The 401(k) takes $4,320 and the health premium $2,400. For income-tax withholding, both come off, leaving $65,280 of taxable wages; the $15,750 standard deduction comes off too, so the percentage method runs $49,530 through the brackets and estimates $5,810.60 of federal income tax. FICA is figured on a different base: the 401(k) is still taxed, so only the $2,400 health premium is excluded, leaving $69,600 of FICA wages — Social Security at 6.2% is $4,315.20 and Medicare at 1.45% is $1,009.20, totalling $5,324.40. Add federal tax and FICA and total taxes withheld are $11,135 a year, about 15.5% of gross. Subtract the $6,720 of pre-tax deductions and the $11,135 of taxes and your take-home pay is $54,145 a year — roughly $2,082.50 in each bi-weekly paycheck, or about 75% of your gross. These are estimates; your real paycheck depends on your W-4 and your employer's payroll system.

Definitions

Gross pay
Your full pay before anything is withheld — your salary, or your hourly wage times the hours and weeks you work, plus any overtime. It is the starting point of every paycheck and the figure all deductions and taxes are measured against.
Net pay (take-home pay)
What actually lands in your bank account: gross pay minus pre-tax deductions, all taxes withheld, and post-tax deductions. On a $72,000 salary with a 6% 401(k) and pre-tax health, take-home works out to about $54,145 a year, or $2,082.50 every two weeks.
Pre-tax deduction
Money taken from your pay before tax is figured, such as a traditional 401(k), health premiums, HSA or FSA. It lowers your taxable wages, but a 401(k) lowers only income-tax wages while Section-125 benefits lower Social Security and Medicare wages as well.
Post-tax deduction
Money taken out after taxes have been calculated — a Roth 401(k), union dues, wage garnishments or charitable payroll gifts. It reduces your take-home pay but does not lower any of the taxes you owe on your wages.
Federal income tax withholding
The federal tax your employer estimates and sends to the IRS from each paycheck, based on your Form W-4. It is an estimate of your eventual tax, not the exact figure, and it is trued up when you file your return.
FICA
The payroll tax for Social Security and Medicare. The employee share is 6.2% for Social Security up to the annual wage base plus 1.45% for Medicare on all wages, withheld separately from income tax and unaffected by your standard deduction or filing status.
Social Security wage base
The yearly cap on wages subject to the 6.2% Social Security tax: $168,600 in 2024, $176,100 in 2025 and $184,500 in 2026. Once your year-to-date wages pass it, Social Security stops coming out and your take-home pay rises.
Additional Medicare Tax
An extra 0.9% Medicare tax on wages above $200,000. Employers withhold it past that flat threshold regardless of filing status, and the final liability — which uses your filing-status threshold — is reconciled on Form 8959 when you file.
Pay frequency
How often you are paid: weekly (52 checks), bi-weekly (26), semi-monthly (24), monthly (12), daily, or annual. Your yearly take-home pay is the same; pay frequency only changes how it is sliced into individual paychecks.
Form W-4
The form that tells your employer how much federal tax to withhold. Step 3 claims dependent and other credits that lower withholding; Step 4(c) adds extra withholding each paycheck. Adjusting it is how you steer toward a small refund or balance instead of a large one.
Effective tax rate
Total taxes withheld divided by gross pay, shown as a percentage. For the $72,000 example it is about 15.5%. It captures income tax and FICA together and is always well below your top withholding bracket.
Take-home rate
Your net pay as a share of gross pay — about 75% in the $72,000 example. It is the quickest gauge of how much of each dollar you earn actually reaches you after taxes and deductions.

Good to know

Take-home pay: the number that actually reaches you

When you accept a job, the figure you negotiate is your gross pay — but the figure that lands in your bank account is your take-home, or net, pay, and the two are never the same. This calculator is about that second number: the money left after your employer holds back everything it is required and authorised to. Understanding the gap is the difference between budgeting on a salary that exists only on paper and budgeting on what you can actually spend. Think of every paycheck as a stack of subtractions from gross pay, taken in a specific order. First come pre-tax deductions you elected — a traditional 401(k), health insurance premiums, an HSA or FSA. These come out before tax is figured, which is part of why they are valuable. Next the government takes its share: federal income tax withholding, then Social Security and Medicare, then any state or local income tax. Finally, post-tax deductions such as a Roth contribution or union dues come off what is left. Whatever survives all of that is your take-home pay. This is a deliberately different question from "what will I owe in tax this year?" That annual question is what a tax return answers, and it nets out credits, other income and deductions across twelve months. Take-home pay is the paycheck question: of the money I earn this period, how much do I keep? The two are related — the income tax withheld here is an estimate of your eventual bill — but they are not identical, and your real return can land higher or lower. Because the calculator works in annual terms and then divides, you can see your take-home pay expressed weekly, every two weeks, twice a month, monthly, by the day, or for the whole year. That makes it easy to line your pay up against rent, a mortgage or a savings goal that is billed on a different schedule. Every figure here is an estimate built from current-year rules; confirm the specifics against your pay stub before you rely on them.

Pre-tax vs after-tax: how 401(k)s and benefits reshape a paycheck

The single most useful thing to understand about your paycheck is that not all deductions are taxed the same way, and the calculator models this carefully because it changes your take-home pay by real money. Start with a traditional 401(k) or 403(b). Contributions are pre-tax for income-tax purposes: the money is subtracted from your wages before federal income tax withholding is figured, so a dollar contributed costs you less than a dollar of take-home pay. At a 22% marginal rate, putting $200 a paycheck into a traditional 401(k) might reduce your take-home by only about $156, because the tax you would have paid on that $200 stays in your pocket via your savings. But — and this is the part people miss — a 401(k) is not exempt from Social Security and Medicare. Those payroll taxes are charged on your full wages including the amount you defer. So your Social Security and Medicare wages stay higher than your income-tax wages. Now contrast that with health insurance, dental and vision premiums, and contributions to an HSA or FSA. When these run through an employer's Section-125 cafeteria plan, as they usually do, they are exempt from both income tax and FICA. Every tax on your paycheck is figured on a smaller number. That makes a pre-tax health premium one of the most tax-efficient deductions available: it shrinks income tax, Social Security and Medicare all at once. The calculator keeps two separate wage figures because of this. Your taxable wages — gross minus the 401(k) minus Section-125 benefits — drive income-tax withholding. Your FICA wages — gross minus only the Section-125 benefits — drive Social Security and Medicare. Watch the two move apart as you add a 401(k): the income-tax base drops, the FICA base does not. Finally there is the after-tax world. A Roth 401(k), union dues, a wage garnishment or a charitable payroll deduction come out after every tax is calculated, so they reduce your take-home dollar-for-dollar without lowering any tax. Knowing which bucket a deduction falls into tells you exactly how it will hit your paycheck. These are estimates — confirm your benefit elections with your employer before relying on them.

How federal income tax withholding is estimated

The federal income tax on your paycheck is not your final tax bill — it is withholding, an ongoing estimate your employer sends to the IRS on your behalf so that, by the time you file, you have already paid most or all of what you owe. This calculator estimates that withholding with the IRS percentage method, the same annualised approach payroll systems use. The logic runs in a few steps. First it takes your taxable wages — gross pay after your 401(k) and pre-tax benefits — and annualises them. From that it subtracts the standard deduction for your filing status, because the W-4 builds the standard deduction into withholding for most employees. What remains is run through the same progressive brackets used on a tax return: 10, 12, 22, 24, 32, 35 and 37%, each applied only to the income inside its band. That produces a tentative annual tax. Then your W-4 adjustments are applied: the dependent and other credits from Step 3 are subtracted, lowering withholding, and any extra amount you asked for in Step 4(c) is added on top, paycheck by paycheck. Two things are worth keeping in mind. The first is that this is an estimate, not a copy of your employer's exact tables. Real payroll uses the detailed figures in IRS Publication 15-T, prorates within the year and accounts for your precise W-4 wording, so your actual stub will differ by a little. The second is that withholding is meant to approximate your tax, not define it. If too little is withheld you will owe at filing; if too much, you will get a refund — which is really an interest-free loan you made to the government. The dependent-credit and extra-withholding boxes here let you experiment with steering toward a small balance either way. As always, treat the result as a planning estimate and confirm against your pay stub or a tax professional.

FICA on your paycheck: Social Security, Medicare and the 0.9% surtax

Alongside income tax, two payroll taxes come out of every paycheck under the banner of FICA, and because they are charged on your wages rather than your taxable income, neither your standard deduction nor your tax bracket changes them at all. They fund Social Security and Medicare directly. Social Security is withheld at 6.2% of your wages, but only up to an annual wage base that rises most years — $168,600 in 2024, $176,100 in 2025 and $184,500 in 2026. The cap has a real effect on higher earners: once your year-to-date wages cross it, Social Security withholding stops for the rest of the calendar year, and your take-home pay jumps for those final paychecks. Because this calculator works on an annual basis, it caps Social Security at the wage base automatically, so its estimate reflects the full-year maximum. Medicare is simpler: 1.45% on every dollar of wages, with no ceiling. On top of that, high earners pay the Additional Medicare Tax, an extra 0.9% on wages above $200,000. Here is a subtlety worth knowing: employers withhold that extra 0.9% on anyone whose pay with them passes $200,000, regardless of filing status, because the employer cannot see a spouse's income. The final liability uses your filing-status threshold and is reconciled on Form 8959 when you file. This tool follows the employer's withholding behaviour and applies the flat $200,000 line, which is the right model for a paycheck estimate. A final point of perspective: the FICA on your stub is only your half of the bill. Federal law makes your employer match it dollar for dollar — another 6.2% for Social Security and 1.45% for Medicare from company funds — so the Treasury actually collects twice the Social Security and Medicare you see, with the lone exception of the 0.9% surtax, which carries no employer match. The arithmetic flips for the self-employed, who play both roles and owe both halves themselves as self-employment tax; that is its own calculation this wage tool leaves aside. Read the FICA numbers here as your slice of what leaves each paycheck, and lean on your real pay stub for figures down to the cent.

Pay frequency: same year, different paychecks

How often you are paid does not change how much you take home over a year — it only changes how that money is sliced into individual checks. Yet pay frequency shapes budgeting more than almost anything else on your stub, so it is worth understanding the common schedules and how they feel in practice. The four standard schedules are weekly, with 52 paychecks a year; bi-weekly, with 26; semi-monthly, with 24; and monthly, with 12. The calculator also shows daily and annual figures so you can reason about a single workday or the whole year. Divide your annual take-home by the number of periods and you have the size of one paycheck. A $54,000 annual take-home is about $1,038 weekly, $2,077 bi-weekly, $2,250 semi-monthly or $4,500 monthly — the same money, packaged differently. The distinction people most often trip over is bi-weekly versus semi-monthly, because they sound alike but are not. Semi-monthly means twice a month, on fixed dates such as the 15th and the last day, giving exactly 24 even paychecks. Bi-weekly means every two weeks, which works out to 26 paychecks — and because 26 checks do not divide evenly into 12 months, two months each year contain a third paycheck. Many people treat those "extra" checks as a chance to save or pay down debt, even though the annual total is unchanged. There is a planning advantage to seeing all of this at once. The pay-period table in this calculator lays out your gross pay, pre-tax deductions, taxes and take-home for every schedule side by side, with your selected frequency highlighted. If a job offer quotes a monthly salary but you are used to thinking bi-weekly, or you want to know what a weekly check looks like before switching jobs, you can compare instantly. These figures are estimates, so use them to plan and compare, then confirm against your actual paychecks.

Salary or hourly: converting pay and counting overtime

Take-home pay works the same way whether you earn a salary or an hourly wage, but getting to your gross pay differs, and the calculator handles both so you can compare offers on equal footing. For a salaried job, gross pay is simply the annual figure you were hired at, and the only question is how it is split across pay periods. For hourly work, gross pay is built from three numbers: your wage, the hours you work each week, and the weeks you work each year. Forty hours across 52 weeks is the full-time benchmark of 2,080 hours, so a $25 wage becomes $52,000 of annual gross. Working fewer weeks — taking unpaid time off, or a seasonal schedule — lowers the annual figure proportionally, which is why the weeks-per-year field matters. Overtime is where hourly pay can pull ahead. Under federal rules, non-exempt employees earn at least 1.5 times their regular wage for hours worked beyond 40 in a week. The calculator lets you add overtime hours per week and pays them at that 1.5× rate, so you can see what picking up five extra hours a week really adds to your take-home once tax and FICA are taken out of the higher gross. Because those extra dollars sit on top of your regular pay, they are taxed at your marginal rate, so the take-home from overtime is always less than the headline gross — a useful reality check before committing to extra shifts. Converting between the two views is a common need: turning an hourly wage into an annual salary to compare against a salaried offer, or breaking a salary down to an hourly equivalent to value your time. The calculator shows an hourly-equivalent figure for salaried pay as well, dividing your gross by full-time hours. As with every number here, treat the result as an estimate for comparison and confirm the details — especially overtime eligibility — with your employer.

Why the same salary can mean very different take-home pay

Two people can earn the identical gross salary and still bring home noticeably different amounts, because take-home pay is shaped by a stack of personal choices and circumstances layered on top of the headline number. Understanding those levers explains the gap — and shows you which ones you actually control. Filing status is often the largest single factor. Because it sets both the withholding standard deduction and the width of every bracket, a married joint filer usually has less federal tax withheld than a single filer on the same wage, while head of household sits between the two. Switch the status selector in this calculator and watch the federal line move even though gross pay never changes. Pre-tax elections are the lever you control most directly. Someone contributing 10% to a traditional 401(k) and paying for pre-tax health coverage shows lower income-tax withholding — and, for the Section-125 benefits, lower Social Security and Medicare too — than a colleague who banks the cash instead. Their take-home is smaller today, but more of their money is being routed into retirement and benefits rather than simply taxed away; the trade-off is real, not just arithmetic. Where you live matters enormously. Two identical paychecks in a no-income-tax state and a high-tax state can diverge by thousands of dollars a year once state and local withholding is layered on, which is why the optional state and local fields here can swing your net pay so sharply. Finally, the Form W-4 itself injects differences: extra withholding, dependent credits, and a second job all change the federal tax taken out without changing the wage at all. That is the whole point of this tool — by isolating each lever, you can see exactly why your take-home looks the way it does, and what would change if you moved one. Treat the comparison as an estimate, and confirm the specifics against your own pay stub before you act on them.

Reading your pay stub and tuning your take-home pay

Once you understand the pieces, your pay stub stops being a mystery and becomes a tool you can act on. A stub lists your gross pay, then each deduction in turn — pre-tax benefits, federal income tax, Social Security, Medicare, any state or local tax, and post-tax items — ending in the net pay you actually receive. The paycheck-stub view in this calculator mirrors that layout for whichever pay frequency you choose, so you can compare it line by line against the real thing and spot anything that looks off. The most powerful lever you control is your Form W-4. If you consistently receive a large refund, you are having too much withheld and lending the government money for free; you can claim dependent credits or reduce extra withholding to raise each paycheck. If you owe a lot at filing, you can add extra withholding to close the gap and avoid an underpayment penalty. The aim is to land near zero. Use the dependent-credit and extra-withholding boxes here to model the change before you submit a new W-4 to your employer. The second lever is your benefit elections. Increasing a pre-tax 401(k) lowers your income-tax withholding now and builds retirement savings, though it does not reduce Social Security and Medicare. Choosing pre-tax health coverage or funding an HSA lowers every tax on your paycheck. Each open-enrolment season is a chance to re-run these numbers and see the take-home effect before you commit. A few cautions. State and local taxes here are a single flat estimate; real state withholding follows each state's own tables and brackets, so use the Income Tax Calculator for a precise state figure. This tool does not enforce IRS contribution limits, so enter realistic amounts. And it models the employee side of payroll only — not the employer's matching taxes or self-employment tax. Everything here is an estimate for planning, not payroll, legal or tax advice; use it to compare offers, weigh a 401(k) increase or pick a pay schedule, then confirm the exact numbers with your pay stub, your payroll department or a qualified professional before you rely on them.

Frequently asked questions

How does this calculator work out my take-home pay?

It starts from your gross pay, removes pre-tax deductions such as a traditional 401(k) and health premiums, estimates the federal income tax withheld using the IRS percentage method, adds Social Security and Medicare, applies any optional flat state and local rate, and finally subtracts post-tax deductions. What remains is your net take-home pay, which it then divides across weekly, bi-weekly, semi-monthly, monthly, daily and annual paychecks. Every number is an estimate for planning, not the exact figure on your pay stub.

Why is my take-home pay so much lower than my salary?

The gap between gross and net pay is made up of three things: pre-tax deductions you chose (a 401(k) and benefits), the federal income tax withheld, and FICA — the 6.2% Social Security and 1.45% Medicare that hit your very first dollar of wages. Optional state and local taxes and any post-tax deductions widen it further. On a typical middle income, taxes and deductions together take roughly a quarter of gross pay, so a take-home rate around 70–80% is common.

How does a 401(k) contribution change my paycheck?

A traditional, pre-tax 401(k) lowers your paycheck by less than the amount you contribute, because it reduces the wages used to figure federal income tax withholding. Crucially, it does not reduce your Social Security and Medicare wages — those are still taxed on the full amount. So contributing $200 a paycheck might only cut your take-home by around $150 once the tax saving is counted. A Roth 401(k) is the opposite: it comes out after tax, so it reduces take-home dollar-for-dollar and is entered here as a post-tax deduction.

Why do my health insurance and 401(k) affect taxes differently?

Health, dental and vision premiums, plus HSA and FSA contributions, are usually run through a Section-125 cafeteria plan, which makes them exempt from both income tax and FICA — they lower every tax on your paycheck. A traditional 401(k) is only exempt from income tax; Social Security and Medicare are still charged on it. This calculator models that distinction, so your Social Security and Medicare wages stay higher than your income-tax wages whenever you contribute to a 401(k).

Is the federal tax shown here the same as the tax on my return?

Not exactly. This figure is estimated withholding — what an employer would hold back each pay period under the IRS percentage method, based on your filing status, the standard deduction and the brackets. Your actual tax for the year is settled on your Form 1040 and can differ because of credits, other income, itemized deductions or a second job. Use the Income Tax Calculator for a full-year return estimate, and treat the withholding here as a paycheck-planning number.

How is the Social Security wage base handled?

Social Security is withheld at 6.2% only on wages up to a yearly cap — $176,100 in 2025, for example. The calculator caps it automatically, so once your FICA wages exceed the base, no further Social Security comes out and your annualised estimate reflects the maximum. Medicare, by contrast, has no cap and is charged at 1.45% on every dollar. High earners also pay the 0.9% Additional Medicare Tax on wages above $200,000, which the calculator adds when it applies.

What does pay frequency change?

Pay frequency changes the size of each paycheck but not your yearly take-home pay. Choosing weekly splits the same annual net into 52 checks, bi-weekly into 26, semi-monthly into 24 and monthly into 12. Bi-weekly and weekly schedules produce a couple of months each year with an extra paycheck, which can feel like a bonus. Use the pay-period table to see your gross, taxes, deductions and take-home for every schedule side by side and budget around the one you are actually paid on.

Can I use this for hourly or overtime pay?

Yes. Switch to Hourly and enter your wage, the hours you work per week and the weeks you work per year; the calculator turns that into annual gross pay. Add overtime hours per week and they are paid at 1.5 times your base wage, the standard federal rate for hours over 40. From there the take-home math is identical to a salary. It is a quick way to see how picking up extra shifts or losing hours changes the money that actually reaches you.

How do W-4 dependents and extra withholding work here?

The dependent and other credits box mirrors Step 3 of Form W-4: it is an annual amount that directly lowers the federal tax withheld from your pay, raising your take-home. The extra withholding box mirrors Step 4(c): it adds a fixed dollar amount of federal tax to every paycheck, lowering take-home. Together they are the main levers for steering toward a small refund or balance at filing instead of a large one. They affect only federal withholding, not Social Security, Medicare or state tax.

Does this include state and local taxes?

Only if you add them. State and local income taxes vary enormously — some states have none, others use brackets, and local wage taxes appear in some cities — so the calculator offers an optional flat-rate estimate applied to your taxable wages. It deliberately ignores state-specific deductions, credits and rules, so treat any state or local figure as a rough guide. For a detailed state estimate, use the Income Tax Calculator, which models all 50 states and DC.

Why doesn't my paycheck match this exactly?

Real payroll systems use the detailed IRS Publication 15-T tables and the precise wording of your W-4, prorate within the year, and reflect benefit elections, year-to-date totals and rounding that a single estimate cannot fully capture. State withholding follows each state's own tables. This tool annualises your pay and applies the percentage method to give a close, consistent estimate, but expect your actual stub to differ by a little. It is built for planning and comparison, not as a substitute for payroll.

Are these figures advice I can rely on to file or run payroll?

No. Everything here is an estimate for personal planning — not payroll, legal or tax advice. The brackets, standard deductions, wage base and FICA rates are accurate, but the engine simplifies withholding, treats state and local tax as a flat rate, and does not enforce contribution limits. Use it to compare job offers, weigh a 401(k) increase or choose a pay frequency, then confirm the exact numbers with your pay stub, your employer's payroll department, or a tax professional.